By Daniel Goldstuck (aka Goldilocks/Goldy)
We arrived in Rio Grande, barely clinging to our lives in the teeth of a storm that had drowned out the moon and boiled the ocean. It wasn't as bad as that, but still a decent adventure making our way through the low pressure shstem.
Some tricky sailing got us through the mouth of the breakwater into Rio Grande, where we had a further 14 mile journey alongside the bulking constructs of the shipyards and fishing terminals peering through the post-storm mist. We were guided safely to our berth at the Oceanographic Museum by Navigator Dave, or NaviDave (or even Davigator) popping out of the coachroof with directions and guidance.
Wet, cold, miserable, and having the time of our lives we beconversation n boat for the night, only to explode onto the dock the next day. Our sails, mattresses, foul weather gear and a whole country's worth of odds and ends were sprawled out to fry from the three days' hammering. Within the space of several hours we had transformed the dock into our own mini-refugee camp. It was crazy to think that all that AND seven people could fit onto that 35ft boat. The guys from the other boat there were so blown away that they were taking photo's and videos of this feat.
Our first impression of Rio Grande was swak. A lot of buildings were boarded up and falling into disrepair, every thing was quiet commpared to the bustle in some of the previous cities we'd been to. But that was ok. We're on a boat! Even though the weather cleared up into beautiful sunrises and sunsets over the river, we could not leave until the southerly wind changed. And so we set about taking the boat apart and repairing all the odds and ends that had suffered over the journey south. Johnny Cash, sunscreen and cuppa-hyheeeeenas saw us through all our chores (not to be mistaken for the homophone, choz).
In the town we had made the acquaintance of Lauro, a long-time friend of Ernesto (future Brennan) and director of the Oceanographic Museum, who made us feel welcome at his institute, and opened up the town for us. He even allowed us to use his WC facilities, in stead of the... questionable.... public ablutions. That was actually a really big thing. Lauro is a fascinating man. In his 40 years of working with the museum, he had established a vocational training school, nautical museum, and Antarctic institute. He gave us personal tours of all of these, accompanied by the most exotic and exciting tales of his exploits. This guy has whale vertebrae in his garden, so you know he's the real deal.
The ship-building department of Lauro's school
Part ii, by Ricardo de Carvalho (aka Allan from the Hangover)
Being invited to a tea party is not something many people get excited about, so when we got such an invite from our new host we were a little sceptical as to what was in store for us. The little green boat house we were invited to didnt look like much, possibly a dusty table and a few benches. As we opened thedoor to Lauro's Kitchen (the formal name of the little green boat house) we were taken into a micro cosm of the sailing world. Well over a thousand flags, all of which had arrived by boat, lined the walls and rafters and there were trinkets and memorobilia to match. Our friend Ernesto (future Bren) and his crew from New Life were there to join us, Lauro treated us to Twinnings Earl Grey and snacks. There was a bunch of great conversation however Im still not quite sure if we were speaking english, spanish or portuguese...The best parts of the evening though were the butter and the conch shell. The butter(Aviacion) was by far the nicest butter any of us have ever had, we were literally putting spoonfulls of butter on the biscuits and breads. Although the video evidence doesn't prove it, I blew a conch shell and it rang out loud and clear almost as if to announce the arrival of Higor Vitor Jose Maia Junior Ernesto Lauro Juan Felipe Obi-Wan de Carvalho the previous evening. We then also went out for a celebration at a local which had some great platters and cold beers on offer.
The next day we took up an offer to visit the school, the boat yard and the museum, its a really impressive assorment of successful projects that have kept Lauro busy over the last 40 years, especially the kitchen at the school where the students served up a tasty lunch. We took the long way back to the boat, visiting the local cathedral and high street. While Bren and I were looking for team stretchy pants the shop assistant lady was asking some serious questions about our fashion sense, which is great especially when it comes to team stretchy pants.
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